AHA, BHA… impossible not to have heard of it! These two acids are the new stars of the cosmetic departments. Cellular renewal and collagen booster, their many active ingredients have made them essential in beauty routines. Between benefits and recommendations, we take stock of these daily exfoliators.

These acids are designed in order to exfoliate the skin, that is to say to eliminate on the surface the dead cells which can clog the pores and dull the complexion. Standing out from each other, they are ready to make way for new, younger and healthier ones.

Unlike a classic scrub, with these exfoliators, there’s no need to rub. Indeed, the elimination of dead cells accumulated on the surface of the skin is done by chemical action, by softening the upper layer of the epidermis. On the efficiency side, everything is a question of dosage. Indeed, AHA and BHA exfoliators must be formulated respecting a pH between 3 and 4 (as a reminder, values ​​ranging from 0 to 7 are considered to be acidic).

The AHA or alpha hydroxy acid exfoliant is naturally present in sugarcane, fruit, and even milk. The forms most commonly used in cosmetics are glycolic acid, lactic acid or even mandelic acid.

The BHA or beta-hydroxy acid exfoliant, the most used form of which is salicylic acid, comes from white willow and meadowsweet, known for its anti-inflammatory properties.

Although they are both exfoliators, each hydroxy acid has properties more suited to certain skin types.

Water soluble property

AHAs are recommended for more sensitive skin because they cause less irritation and are less drying. Ideal for starting a treatment for example.

Fat soluble property

BHAs are perfect for combination skin with an oily tendency. Their anti-inflammatory actions also treat acne problems and blackheads, which AHAs will do less.

Another difference is that BHAs increase the skin’s resistance to ultraviolet rays caused by the sun.

The more time passes, the less our cells regenerate. Aging, exposure to the sun, tobacco and other external aggressions… nothing helps, the skin becomes drier and the complexion duller. To limit this process, it is necessary to help your skin to eliminate the accumulation of dead cells, sebum and imperfections, while respecting the epidermis. First step towards glowing skin, chemical peels, thanks to their AHA and BHA active ingredients which allow:

• smooth fine lines and wrinkles;
• fight acne and blemishes ;
• maintain an optimal level of hydration;
• unify the complexion ;
• soothe redness.

Considered gentle, it is however important to know some basic rules to maximize the use of these exfoliators:

• first, before a full application, test your products containing AHA and / or BHA on a small area of ​​your skin. The feeling of slight tightness is normal and proves that the product is working. If it burns and reddens, your skin is too sensitive. Note that the power of the exfoliation depends on the concentration of AHA, its type but also its pH. Find out before choosing yours and seek advice from a specialist;
• acids promote photosensitivity, it is therefore essential to use a UVA / UVB sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or more and to renew the application frequently;

• Carefully avoid using AHAs and BHAs in the event of sunburn or unwanted redness.

Although they stimulate hydration, the key word remains exfoliation. So, after using AHA and BHA, conscientiously apply moisturizing and soothing care (containers of Aloe Vera or Calendula for example) and do not hesitate to opt for a deep mask once a week.

On the other hand, you can completely combine products containing AHA and BHA in order to target and treat a specific problem or a particular type of skin. Another possibility: alternate between AHA and BHA, changing every 3 weeks so that the skin does not get used to it and continues to draw the active ingredients.

Renowned for their visible effects but also for their gentle action, you can use it daily, morning and evening. If your skin is reddened and tight, it is advisable to space the application every other day and watch how your skin reacts.

Most ? AHAs and BHAs promote the penetration of care and other complementary active ingredients, ideal for a complete beauty routine and optimal results.